So from the cool, lush, green Pyin Oo Lwin we moved onto the dusty destination of Mandalay. (Yes I couldn't help thinking of Seinfeld every time I said it). What a change of scenery. Pindaya, Kalaw and Pyin Oo Lwin are rural villages that are slower paced with relaxed attitudes where you can sit back and watch life go by. Mandalay is the complete opposite of that.
As you wind your way down from the hills to the valley you notice the dust start to get thicker and everything starts to look browner. It actually feels like you are slowing suffocating under the smog. Mandalay is a large, bustling city that is a gateway to a number of smaller very interesting ancient cities that lie within a short drive. There is also so much to see in Mandalay itself such as the Royal Palace, Mandalay Hill and The worlds largest book.
Manadalay palace is a faithful reconstruction of the 1850's royal palace that was burnt down after being occupied by the Japanese during WW2. It has an impressive number of buildings on the site including a very tall watchtower and is surrounded by a moat and fortress walls. It really gives you a feel of what life would have been like for the Royal family, the last Burmese King at that time. Its fascinating to see the carvings, mosaics and the architecture of the buildings.
The watchtower
Intricate carved lace work on the doors.
The Moat.
Mandalay Hill is another must see place to visit on your trip to Mandalay. Mainly because you get a great overview of the whole city from the top. We got our guide to drop us at the top of the hill and then walked down. Much easier than walking up as it is very steep and there is a heck of a lot of stairs. Its great if you can get there to see either the sunrise of the sunset as it adds to the ambience particularly as you will see many monks who come to talk to the tourists. It really is a spectacular view and the Stupa up the top is amazing too. Its just great to be able to mix and mingle.
The worlds largest book is also very eclectic and different. This 'book' is housed in a large complex at Kuthodaw Pagoda. The actual pages of the book all 730 of them are about 2 metres high and 1 metre wide and made out of marble. They contain the entire Buddhist cannon. Each page has its own stupa to sit in and they are all lined up in a row. Its not what you expect but well worth a visit.
You can't go to Mandalay unless you visit all the little cottage industries dotted around the town such as the gold leaf factories, the wood and marble carvers and the silver smiths. Not to mention the weaving, tapestry and silk merchants. I found all of this really fascinating.
And of course then the adventure really begins visiting the ancient cities of Mingun, Ava, Sagaging, and Amapura (Ubien Bridge).
Innwa (Ava) is an ancient town that we travelled around by horse and cart.
Just an hours boat ride away from Mandalay, along the Ayeyarwady River is the little town of Mingun. We set of early on the ferry and were met by people on ox carts eager to give us a tour of Mingun. I absolutely loved Mingun. It is a small village but is so interesting. First you come across the Mingun temple. This temple is massive. It was originally built around 1790 and was supposed to be the tallest temple ever at 152 metres but only ended up being a 1/3 of that size. It also was damaged by a massive earthquake. You can actually walk to the top on some precarious stairs. When you get to the top it is a workplace health and safety nightmare. But it has the most amazing view.
The next place you come upon is the Mingun bell, supposedly the largest working bell in the world at 3.7 metres. Again this is really interesting and we happened to come upon a group of monks who were touring around and I don' t know if we were more fascinated with them or them with us.
I thought I would have a look under the bell.
Another spectacular sight is the Hsinbyume Pagoda. It was built in 1816 apparently for the kings favourite wife and has the most amazing architecture. It is so weird to come upon this massive bright white structure in the middle of a run down rural village.
We did go to U Bien Bridge, the longest teak bridge of its kind in the world, I think it is 1.2km. As with all of the attractions in Myanmar the locals manage to make it a money making exercise selling all sorts of wares. Notably for me purses and a variety of things made with watermelon seeds. We also came across a lady with a large basket of owls. She was asking 5 Myanmar dollars to release an owl.
So there is alot to see and do in Mandalay and you definitely need to give yourself at least 3-4 days to get around everything. One of the things I really enjoyed was our cruise along the Irrawaddy River Going from Mandalay and ending up in Bagan.
Part of our cruise down the Irrawaddy was to visit a small agricultural village. Here they are threshing rice by hand.
Anyway, I will leave you here. When I take up my next post we will discover the Mystical, intoxicating Bagan.
Til next time,
Kat